Wooden Wheels

One of my Cobra Club buddies (thanks Rob!) recommended making some wooden wheels to help me do a rough adjustment of the track, caster, camber and toe. I thought this was an excellent idea given the infintely adjustable setup I have on the Pace design. So I've made two disks the same diameter as the wheels and tyres I am running, and the same bolt patter as the hub.

I know the ride height I'm after, so I just need to remove the suspension pushrods and support the wooden wheels at this height, and then I can measure and set all the above.

Of course, the real wheels and tyres probably look a little nicer!

Fuel System

Stainless hard lines run front to rear for the fuel. Being an LS engine, I don't need a breather line so a single hardline run from the rear to the engine.

The rest of the lines are all stainless braided lines. I have a rock filter (reusable, cleanable) for larger rubbish in the lines fitted beside the diff cage, and then a fine filter and high pressure in-line pump fitted into the trans tunnel. The regulator and fuel pressure gauge is fitted above the diff.

The aluminium fuel tank is baffled and has a low central collection point to reduce supply starvation.

Rear end and more odd jobs

Wow, it's been over a month since my last update! Time flies when you're having fun :-)

First, I've stripped the engine of accessories, loom, puleys, etc. this is partly to make it possible to install the engine into the car, partly because I don't some of the accessories (aircon and heater are gone), partly because I wanted to clean it up (not that is was very dirty, as it is so new anyway), and finally because it was scaring me! I thought, what have I taken on! There is so much cabling, pipes, etc. nothing like the VW beetle engines we used to play with when I was a young bloke.

So, taking it mostly apart has given back my confidence. It's not so scary once you tame it a bit.

I took a tip from an LS forum and bought a small $10 hand pump pressure pack to squirt water to remove the degreaser. It is not as clumsy as a high pressure washer or hose, so less risk of getting water where you don't want it.

With the diff, I cleaned it the same way. Then I filed of the rough casting burrs to make it look neater. Finally, I gave it a coat or three of silver engine enamel so it looks brand new now.

I've been looking at ways to reroute the loom, or cover the coil packs, and think I might leave them and just look for a nice cover. Something different though. Not your typical HSV cover or those fibreglass spray paint units. Mmmm.

Received all my parts so I could install the diff and finish the rear suspensions and axles. So that's basically done now too.

Installed the pedal box assembly, and also ordered a nice billet brake/clutch reservoir from the U.S. And fabricated some panels so I could mount that.

The kit uses the donor GM fly-by-wire unit with a bell crank and pushrod assembly to leverage the new Tilton pedals.

Got a heart

Picked up the donk today. 2014 LS2 6.0L with only 16,000kms. Manual six speed gearbox.

Also got the diff (3.45 LSD), ECU and loom.

Should be good for a few horsepower!

Heat shields and front suspension

Polished stainless heat shields now line the engine bay, although I've left the protective grey film on them until I stop mucking about in there so I don't scratch them!

And the front suspension has been assembled. How's that bling of the bell crank! I polished up the aluminium crank itself - that alone took the best part of an hour each side!

(The polishing I did with a modified 1HP bench grinder, buffing equipment and compounds I've researched on the web while waiting for the kit to arrive.)

Heat cloth and pedal box installed

A few jobs completed this weekend. Finished installing the aluminised glass fibre heat insulation in the engine bay and transmission tunnel.

Assembled the pedal box, and cut an opening in the front of the drivers footbox to accomodate it.

And received my tyres yesterday too. Sweet!

First, some dismantling

Happy New Year! 2015 - the year of my cobra :-)

It is much easier to work on the car with the body removed. In fact for some jobs it is really essential. Fortunately, AP ship the body mounted and aligned with side bolted (and not loctited) but only temporarily fixed front and rear, so it is a fairly straight forward task to remove.

I built a wooden frame with the same width as the chassis so the sides bolted straight on. Then a couple of pieces of timber to spread the load from and rear. The body is mainly carbon fibre so is quite rigid and light, plus there is framing pieces bonded inside where the front and rear firewalls are that actually keep the curve across the body in shape.

I don't have much space, so this frame and body contraption is now lifted into my carport roof, and my daily drivers can slide underneath just nicely.

The working garage is now much roomier without the body; I've turned the chassis around so I can begin work on the engine bay heat shields and pedal box next.

Thanks very much to Pete and Ben who dropped by in Pete's 'Stang for a look-see and ended up working for a few hours! Here's a gratuitous pic of his car!