I had the loom from the donor vehicle that matched the driveline. I had to unwrap most of that, remove any redundant wires, extend some of the wires and shorten others so I could relocate the ECU from the front right corner of the engine bay (normal position in the donor car), to behind the dash.
I also had the donor ECU to match, and I had to workout all the pinouts and wires from that. Not everything is needed, and some things are needed that weren't there. As I was not using the body control module (BCM) that normally pairs with the ECU and runs many things in the donor, I had to work out how to get around that. Things like the tacho feed, speedo feed, reverse lockout wires, etc.
Then I had to install additional sensors around the engine to provide information for all the gauges, as they too would normally be fed by computers, etc, in the donor. This naturally required additional wiring.
Finally, there was all the body loom wiring to do. The kit was supplied with an EZ kit loom, which was pretty good actually. All the wires are actually colour coded and printed on them is their purpose which makes it easy to track a wire. But it is still complex and t consuming, because it is a generic loom and I needed to modify it, and integrate it with the gauges, dash, steering column stalk and ECU feeds as required.
I installed two OBD2 ports also. This is because I am considering installing cruise control, and due to the drive-by-wire setup the only alternative I've found is an aftermarket unit that plugs into the obd2 port to read the speed, and plugs into the dbw connectors to control the accelerator.
Using the obd2 port I connected a code scanner, powered up the ECU, and to my absolute surprise - it worked! I got read outs that told me the dbw pedal was wired incorrectly! And it was right! I was wrong! Retired it and voila - I can move the gauge by pressing the pedal! No engine start yet though cause no exhaust and other things aren't ready.
